What to Look For in a Cast Iron Skillet

Buy once, and buy the right size

A skillet is one of the few things in the shop that outlasts the person who bought it. That is worth ten minutes of thinking about before you pick one up.

The four things we check

• Weight. Heavy holds heat, which is the whole point — but a pan you dread lifting is a pan you never use. Ten inches is the sweet spot for most kitchens.
• The cooking surface. Run a finger across it. Modern pans are pebbly; older ones are glassy. Both work, but the smoother surface releases eggs sooner.
• The handle. Look for a long handle with a helper loop. You will be moving it in and out of an oven with a towel.
• The seasoning. Pre-seasoned is a starting point, not a finish. It gets better every time you cook fat in it.

Looking after it

Hot water, a brush, dry it on the burner, wipe a thin film of oil in. That is the entire routine. Soap is fine. The internet is wrong about soap.

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